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Sabtu, 14 April 2012

Penghidupan Yang Halal

Diera Globalisasi ini semua orang berlomba-lomba mencari penghasilan yang banyak untuk menghidupi masing-masing keluarganya,tetapi diantara sekian banyak orang lupa,atau kurang memperhatikan dari mana dia mendapatkan ,dengan cara apa dia dapatkan,pengahasilan tersebut,"yang penting dapat duit banyak".
Sebagai seorang muslim hendaknya memperhatikan bagaimana cara mencari penghasilan yang halal,sehingga dia dan keluarganya selamat dari harta yang haram,yang akan berpengaruh terhadap perilakunya di dunia

Lemahnya iman telah menyebabkan kita tidak yakin lagi dengan janji-janji Allah Ta’ala. Seolah-olah tujuan hidup kita hanyalah dunia, mencari makan, kekuasaan, dan kekayaan.
"Akan datang pada manusia suatu saat dimana seseorang tidak peduli dari mana hartanya didapat, apakah dari yang halal atau yang haram." (HR Ahmad dan Bukhari)
Bukankah Rosulullah telah bersabda bahwa, "Janganlah kamu merasa, bahwa rezekimu terlambat datangnya, karena sesungguhnya tidaklah seorang hamba akan mati, hingga telah datang kepadanya rezeki terakhir (yang telah ditentukan) untuknya, maka tempuhlah jalan yang baik dalam mencari rezeki, yaitu dengan mengambil yang halal dan meninggalkan yang haram." (HR. Ibnu Majah, Abdurrazzaq, Ibnu Hibban, dan al-Hakim, dishahihkan oleh al-Albani

The Fig Tree

FIG

B/W sketch

Ficus carica L.

Moraceae

Common Names: Fig (English), Higo (Spanish), Figue (French), Feige (German), Fico (Italian). Related Species: Cluster fig (Ficus racemosa), Sycomore Fig (Ficus sycomorus).
Distant Affinity: Mulberry (Morus spp.); Breadfruit (Artocarpus altilis Fosb.); Jakfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam.); Che; Chinese Mulberry (Cudrania tricuspidata).
Origin: The fig is believed to be indigenous to western Asia and to have been distributed by man throughout the Mediterranean area. Remnants of figs have been found in excavations of sites traced to at least 5,000 B.C.
Adaptation: The fig grows best and produces the best quality fruit in Mediterranean and dryer warm-temperate climates. Rains during fruit development and ripening can cause the fruits to split. With extra care figs will also grow in wetter, cooler areas. Diseases limit utility in tropical climates. Fully dormant trees are hardy to 12° - 15° F, but plants in active growth can be damaged at 30° F. Fig plants killed to the ground will often resprout from the roots. Only the hardiest cultivars should be attempted in areas such as the Willamette Valley, the Sierra Nevada and high desert. However, all cultivars are suitable elsewhere in California. Chilling requirements for the fig are less than 300 hours. In containers figs are eye-catching specimens inside or outdoors. It is best to choose a slow-growing cultivar.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The fig is a picturesque deciduous tree, to 50 ft tall, but more typically to a height of 10 - 30 ft. Their branches are muscular and twisting, spreading wider than they are tall. Fig wood is weak and decays rapidly. The trunk often bears large nodal tumors, where branches have been shed or removed. The twigs are terete and pithy rather than woody. The sap contains copious milky latex that is irritating to human skin. Fig trees often grow as a multiple-branched shrub, especially where subjected to frequent frost damage. They may be espaliered, but only where roots may be restricted, as in containers. Foliage: Fig leaves are bright green, single, alternate and large (to 1 ft length). They are more or less deeply lobed with 1 - 5 sinuses, rough hairy on the upper surface and soft hairy on the underside. In summer their foliage lends a beautiful tropical feeling.
Flowers: The tiny flowers of the fig are out of sight, clustered inside the green "fruits", technically a synconium. Pollinating insects gain access to the flowers through an opening at the apex of the synconium. In the case of the common fig the flowers are all female and need no pollination. There are 3 other types, the caprifig which has male and female flowers requiring visits by a tiny wasp, Blastophaga grossorum; the Smyrna fig, needing cross-pollination by caprifigs in order to develop normally; and the San Pedro fig which is intermediate, its first crop independent like the common fig, its second crop dependent on pollination.
Fruits: The common fig bears a first crop, called the breba crop, in the spring on last season's growth. The second crop is borne in the fall on the new growth and is known as the main crop. In cold climates the breba crop is often destroyed by spring frosts. The matured "fruit" has a tough peel (pure green, green suffused with brown, brown or purple), often cracking upon ripeness, and exposing the pulp beneath. The interior is a white inner rind containing a seed mass bound with jelly-like flesh. The edible seeds are numerous and generally hollow, unless pollinated. Pollinated seeds provide the characteristic nutty taste of dried figs.

CULTURE

Location: Figs require full sun all day to ripen palatable fruits. Trees become enormous, and will shade out anything growing beneath. Repeated pruning to control size causes loss of crop. The succulent trunk and branches are unusually sensitive to heat and sun damage, and should be whitewashed if particularly exposed. Roots are greedy, traveling far beyond the tree canopy. Figs are not a fruit tree for small places. The fine roots that invade garden beds, however, may be cut without loss to the tree. In areas with short (less than 120 days between frosts), cool summers, espalier trees against a south-facing, light-colored wall to take advantage of the reflected heat. In coastal climates, grow in the warmest location, against a sunny wall or in a heat trap. For container grown plants, replace most of the soil in the tub every three years and keep the sides of the tub shaded to prevent overheating in sunlight. Irrigation: Young fig tees should be watered regularly until fully established. In dry western climates, water mature trees deeply at least every one or two weeks. Desert gardeners may have to water more frequently. Mulch the soil around the trees to conserve moisture. If a tree is not getting enough water, the leaves will turn yellow and drop. Also, drought-stressed trees will not produce fruit and are more susceptible to nematode damage. Recently planted trees are particularly susceptible to water deficits, often runt out, and die.
Pruning: Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. It is essential only during the initial years. Trees should be trained according to use of fruit, such as a low crown for fresh-market figs. Since the crop is borne on terminals of previous year's wood, once the tree form is established, avoid heavy winter pruning, which causes loss of the following year's crop. It is better to prune immediately after the main crop is harvested, or with late-ripening cultivars, summer prune half the branches and prune the remainder the following summer. If radical pruning is done, whitewash the entire tree.
Fertilization: Regular fertilizing of figs is usually necessary only for potted trees or when they are grown on sands. Excess nitrogen encourages rank growth at the expense of fruit production, and the fruit that is produced often ripens improperly, if at all. As a general rule, fertilize fig trees if the branches grew less than a foot the previous year. Apply a total of 1/2 - 1 pound of actual nitrogen, divided into three or four applications beginning in late winter or early spring and ending in July.
Frost Protection: In borderline climates, figs can be grown out of doors if they are given frost protection. Brown Turkey, Brunswick and Blue Celeste cultivars are some of the best choices. Plant against a wall or structure which provides some heat by radiation. Or grow as a bush, pruning the trunk to near ground level at the end of the second year. Allow several stems to replace the trunk, and grow as you would a lilac. For further protection, erect a frame over the plant, covering and surrounding it with heavy carpet in winter. Keep the roots as dry as possible during winter, raising a berm to exclude melting snows during thaws. In northern climates, the fig is best grown as a tub or pot plant that can be brought into a warm location in winter and taken out again in spring. Dormant buds are more susceptible to freezing than wood. Freezing may also create a trunk without live buds; regrowth is possible only from roots.
Propagation: Fig plants are usual propagated by cuttings. Select foot-long pieces of dormant wood, less than 1 inch diameter, with two-year-old wood at base. One-year twigs with a heel of two-year branch at the base may also be used. Dip the cuttings in a rooting hormone and allow them to callus one week in a moist place at 50-60° F. Summer cuttings may also be made, but they do best if defoliated and winterized in a refrigeration for 2-3 weeks before potting. Leafy shoots require a mist bed. Particularly rare cultivars may be propagated on rootstocks, or older trees, topworked by whip, cleft or crown grafting, or chip or patch budding. Rooted cuttings should be planted in 22 to 30 feet squares, depending upon the capacity of the soil and the ultimate size of the tree. Keep roots moist until planted. Never transplant or disturb a young tree while it is starting new growth in spring, as this is likely to to kill it. Cut the tree back to 2 ft high upon planting and whitewash the trunk.
Pests and Diseases: Fig tree roots are a favorite food of gophers, who can easily kill a large plant. One passive method of control is to plant the tree in a large aviary wire basket. Deer are not particularly attracted to figs, but birds can cause a lot of damage to the fruit. Nematodes, particularly in sandy soils, attack roots, forming galls and stunting the trees. Mitadulid and Carpophilus dried fruit beetles can enter ripening fruit through the eye and cause damage by introducing fungi and rots. They frequently breed in fallen citrus fruits. Keep a clean orchard by destroy fallen fruits and do not grow near citrus trees. Euryphid mites cause little damage but are carriers of mosaic virus from infected to clean trees.
Mosaic virus, formerly considered benign, probably causes crop reduction. Symptoms resemble potassium deficiency--leaves are marbled with yellow spots, and the veins are light colored. Symptoms are often not apparent until the tree is older or when it becomes heat or water-stressed. Do not purchase infected trees and isolate those which show symptoms. Botrytis causes a blast of branch terminals, which dry out and turn charcoal-like. The attack usually starts from half-grown fruits damaged by the first frost of winter, then enters the main stem as a reddish expanding necrotic zone. The infection is generally self-controlling and stops in the spring. It can be prevented by removing mummies and frost damaged fruits as soon as they are observed. Fig canker is a bacterium which enters the trunk at damaged zones, causing necrosis and girdling and loss of branches. It usually starts at sunburned areas, so it is important to keep exposed branches whitewashed. Rhyzopus smut attacks ripened fruits on the tree, causing charcoal black coating inside the fruit, and is worst on cultivars with large, open eyes. Most ripe fruit losses are from Endosepsis (Fusarium) and Aspergillus rot which is introduced by insects, even pollinating wasps. The fruit appears to burst, or a ropy, mucus-like exudate drains from the eye, rendering the fruit are inedible. The best control is to destroy all crop for one year, apply diazinon granules beneath trees to eliminate insect vectors, and destroy adjacent wild trees. Penicillium fungus will attack dried fruits in storage but can be controlled by keeping them dry, or sulfuring before storage.
Harvest: Figs must be allowed to ripen fully on the tree before they are picked. They will not ripen if picked when immature. A ripe fruit will be slightly soft and starting to bend at the neck. Harvest the fruit gently to avoid bruising. Fresh figs do not keep well and can be stored in the refrigerator for only 2 - 3 days. Some fig varieties are delicious when dried. They take 4 - 5 days to dry in the sun and 10 -12 hours in a dehydrator. Dried figs can be stored for six to eight months.
Commercial potential: Because of losses in transport and short shelf life, figs are a high-value fruits of limited demand. The best outlet is direct sale at roadside or farmers markets, but do not permit handling of the fruit. Figs for shipping are collected daily just before they reach the fully ripe stage, but yield to a soft pressure, usually indicated by small cracks in the skin. They should be immediately refrigerated. For commerce, choose a cultivar that parts readily from the branch and does not tear the neck.

CULTIVARS

Adriatic (Fragola, Strawberry Fig, Verdone, White Adriatic)
Origin central Italy, Small to medium, skin greenish, flesh strawberry colored. Good, all-purpose fig. Light breba crop. Large vigorous tree leafs out early; subject to frost damage. Prune to force new growth.
Black Mission (Beers Black, Franciscan, Mission)
Origin Balearic Islands. Fruits all-over black purple, elongated, Flesh watermelon to pink, fairly good taste. Easily dried at home. Single best all-round variety for south, north, coast, interior. Brebas prolific, fairly rich. Tree very large, plant at maximum spacing. Do not prune after tree reaches maturity. Commences growth midseason.
Blanche (Italian Honey fig, Lattarula, Lemon, White Marseille)
Medium to large, skin yellowish green, flesh white to amber, very sweet, lemon flavor. Light breba crop. Valuable in short-season, cool-summer areas. Slow growing, dense, hardy tree.
Brown Turkey (Aubique Noire, Negro Largo, San Piero
Origin Provence. Medium, skin is purplish brown, flesh pinkish amber. Good flavor. Best when fresh. Light breba crop. Small, hardy, vigorous tree. Prune severely for heaviest main crop. Does best in southern California.
Celeste (Blue Celeste, Honey Fig, Malta, Sugar, Violette)
Small to medium, skin is light violet to violet-brown, flesh reddish amber. Very sweet, usually dried. Light breba crop. Tightly closed eye, good for Southeast. Small, productive, hardy.
Conadria
Origin Ira Condit, Riverside 1956. First artificial hybrid fig. Fruit pale green, medium, flesh strawberry red. Mildly sweet. Good fresh, excellent dried. More productive than Adriatic but of lesser quality. Light breba crop. Tree vigorous, tends to excessive growth under irrigation, best in hot climates.
Croisic (Cordelia, Gillette, St. John)
Only edible caprifig. Fruits very early, only brebas are useful. Fruits pale yellow, small, pulp nearly white, without a lot of character. Tree low, dense, spreading. . For north coast and Pacific Northwest.
Desert King (Charlie, King)
Origin Madera, Calif. 1920. San Pedro type. Large, skin is deep green, minutely spotted white, pulp strawberry red. Sweet, delicious fresh or dried. Commonly matures good fruit without caprification near the coast. Tree highly vigorous. Hardy, best adapted to to cool areas such as the Pacific Northwest.
Excel
Origin W.B. Storey, Riverside, 1975. Large, skin is yellow, flesh light amber. Fruits practically neckless, blocky. Very sweet. Excellent, all-purpose fig. Light breba crop. Similar to Kadota but more productive. Tree vigorous, even rank. Does well in most parts of California.
Flanders
Origin I.J. Condit, Riverside, 1965. Seedling of White Adriatic. Medium, long neck, skin is brownish yellow with violet stripes, flesh amber. Strong, fine flavor. Excellent all-purpose fruit. Good breba crop. Ripens late. Tree vigorous but requires no great pruning. For south coastal California, San Joaquin Valley.
Judy
Origin Leonard Jessen, Pasadena, 1986. Probable seedling of California Brown Turkey. Large and broad, fruit is brown to black, pulp pink.
Kadota (Dottato, Florentine, White Kadota)
Medium, skin is yellowish green, flesh amber, tinged pink at center. Flavor rich. Resists souring. Little or no breba crop. Tree upright, requires annual pruning to slow growth. Requires hot, dry climate for best quality.
Len
Origin Leonard Jessen, Pasadena, 1984. Seedling of Black Mission. Fruit smaller than Mission, black, pulp pink, quite sweet.
Osborn's Prolific (Arachipel, Neveralla)
Medium to large, skin is dark reddish brown, flesh amber, often tinged pink. Very sweet, best fresh. Light breba crop. Tree upright, bare, will grow in shade. Ripens late. Only for north coast, Pacific Northwest. Poor in warm climates.
Panachee (Striped Tiger, Tiger)
Small to medium, skin is greenish yellow with dark green strips, flesh strawberry, dry but sweet. Best fresh. No breba crop. Requires long, warm growing season. Ripens late.
Tena
Origin W.B. Storey, Riverside, 1975. Small, skin is light green,flesh amber. Fine flavor. Good fresh or dried. Good breba crop. Bears heavily. Tree strong, dense. For coastal California and interior south.
Genoa (White Genoa)
Medium, skin is greenish yellow to white, flesh yellow-amber. Sweet, good fresh or dried. Light breba and main crops.Tree upright, requires constant annual pruning. Best adapted to cooler regions of the West. Very late in northern California, continuing to ripen even after first frosts.
Ventura
Large, skin is green, flesh deep red, long neck. Excellent flavor. Good fresh or dried. Good breba crop. Ripens late but matures well in cool areas. Compact tree.
Verte (Green Ischia)
Small, skin is greenish yellow, flesh strawberry. Excellent fresh or dried. Good breba crop. Small tree. Recommended for short-summer climates.

FURTHER READING

  • Condit. I. J. The Fig. Waltham, Mass., Chronica Botanica Co., 1947.
  • Condit, I. J. Fig Culture in California. Extension Service Circular 77, 1933.

Ternyata Teh Celup Berbahaya

Apakah benar teh celup membahayakan kesehatan? Mengapa demikian? Ternyata penyebabnya lebih pada kemasannya, kantong kertas kecil berserat renggang yang ternyata mengandung chlorine, yang antara lain bisa menyebabkan kemandulan, keterbelakangan mental dan kanker! Untuk dapat lebih memahaminya, kita akan membahas perihal teh celup ini secara garis besar saja.
Di pasaran, ada 3 jenis teh yang biasa dijual; teh celup, teh daun atau teh serbuk seduh, dan teh bubuk instan. Masing-masing jenis teh bisa dipilih sesuai kebutuhan. Sebelum mengkonsumsinya, pastikan Tanggal Kedaluarsanya ! Teh Celup Bubuk teh yang dibungkus sejenis kertas berpori-pori halus yang tahan panas. Bagi Anda penggemar teh, pasti tahu teh celup.
Sangat modern dan praktis. Pastinya Anda sering minum teh karena paham akan manfaat teh bagi tubuh. Misalnya saja, teh merah untuk relaksasi, teh hitam untuk pencernaan, atau teh hijau untuk melangsingkan tubuh. Saat hendak minum teh, apakah Anda terbiasa mencelupkan kantong teh celup berlama-lama? Jika ya, hati-hati. Mungkin Anda senang mencelupkan teh lama-lama karena berpikir semakin lama kantong teh dicelupkan dalam air panas, makin banyak khasiat teh tertinggal dalam minuman teh karena teh semakin pekat.
Asal mula teh celup
Anda minum teh? Teh celup atau teh tubruk? Sudah barang tentu dengan alasan kepraktisan, banyak orang yang lebih memilih teh celup.
Secara tidak sengaja teh celup ditemukan oleh Thomas Sullivan, seorang pedagang teh dan kopi dari New York, dia mengirim sample teh dalam kantong sutra kecil kepada para pelanggannya. Dia menggunakan kantong sutra karena alasan ekonomis, kalau menggunakan kaleng, selain biaya pembuatannya lebih mahal, teh yang dikemas juga harus lebih banyak.
Pada awalnya para pelanggan Thomas bingung dengan kemasan baru ini. Mereka menganggap kemasan ini sama saja dengan teh yang dimasukkan dalam saringan metal, mereka langsung melemparkan begitu saja kemasan tersebut ke dalam air panas. Baru kemudian mereka menyadari bahwa ternyata kemasan tersebut cukup praktis untuk menyeduh teh secara langsung. Mereka menganggap ini lebih praktis karena tidak perlu membersihkan saringan teh atau teko. Selesai diseduh, kemasan berikut tehnya bisa langsung dibuang. Lama-kelamaan permintaan sample teh dalam kemasan makin banyak, dan pada akhirnya Thomas Sullivan menyadari bahwa ini bisa menjadi dagangan yang menguntungkan. Teh celupnya mulai dipasarkan secara komersial pada tahun 1904, dan dengan cepat popularitasnya menyebar ke seluruh penjuru dunia.
Akan tetapi, disadari pula, kemasan tersebut membawa problem sendiri: Kualitas aroma dan rasa. Daun teh, membutuhkan ruangan untuk mengembang, sehingga bisa mengeluarkan aroma dan rasa yang optimal. Solusinya adalah membuat kemasan lebih besar, dan daun teh yang digunakan ukurannya yang paling kecil. Ukuran ini dikenal dengan nama Fanning dan Dust yang merupakan tingkat terendah dari kualifikasi kualitas teh. Ukuran yang kecil menyebabkan zat tannin lebih cepat keluar, sehingga menimbulkan rasa pahit.
Bagaimanapun, aroma dan rasa terbaik akan keluar dari hasil seduhan loose tea atau teh tubruk. Jadi kalau anda memang ingin meningkatkan apresiasi anda terhadap teh, mulailah beralih ke loose tea. Dari segi kepraktisan, memang lebih repot. Tetapi ritual penyeduhan teh merupakan bagian dari seni teh itu sendiri. Dan jangan lupa untuk tidak membiarkan ampas teh tetap di dalam teko atau cangkir Anda.
Namun seiring perkembangan zaman, kantong teh kemudian berganti, dari sutera ke kertas, inilah yang kemudian menimbulkan masalah.
Teh celup masa sekarang
Teh celup terdiri dari ramuan teh, yang kemudian untuk menambah keharumannya, di Indonesia biasanya dicampur melati, yang kesemuanya dikemas dalam kantong kecil.
Tehnya sendiri tidak berbahaya, yang berbahaya adalah kantong kertas kemasannya. Kantong teh terbuat dari kertas kecil berserat renggang, –seperti sudah disebutkan di depan, pada masa awalnya kantongnya terbuat dari sutera atau nylon– yang diisi dengan daun teh, agar dapat menyeduh teh dengan hemat dan praktis. Daun tehnya tetap berada dalam kantong ketika teh diseduh dengan air panas, membuatnya sangat mudah mengeluarkan dan membuang daun teh yang sudah diseduh itu, menyeduh teh menjadi semakin mudah karena kantung itu diikatkan pada selembar benang dengan label kertas di ujung yang lain. Jadi benang ini juga berfungsi sebagai alat untuk mencelupkan daun teh dan mengangkatnya.
Bahaya Chlorine
Pada umumnya kertas dibuat dari pulp (bubur kertas), yang terbuat dari bahan kayu, bubur ini berwarna coklat tua, untuk membuat serat pulp itu berwarna putih, digunakan sejenis bahan kimia pemutih yang terbuat dari senyawa chlorine yang sangat pekat. Sayang dalam prosesnya, chlorine ini tetap tertinggal dalam produk kertas karena tidak dilakukan penetralan karena biayanya sangat tinggi. Kertas semacam inilah yang kemudian digunakan sebagai kantong teh celup.
Hindari mencelupkan kantong teh terlalu lama, karena Anda tentu berpikir bahwa semakin lama Anda merendam teh celup itu dalam air panas, semakin banyak sari teh yang tertinggal dalam cangkir Anda. Namun yang terjadi justru sebaliknya. Akan semakin banyak kandungan chlorine di kantong teh celup yang larut dalam teh Anda, apa lagi kalau Anda merendamnya lebih dari 3 menit.
Dalam industri kertas, chlorine memang biasa digunakan sebagai bahan insektisida, disinfektan, pengawet, pembersih dan pemutih kertas, yang kemudian digunakan untuk membuat tissue, popok, kain dan sebagainya; juga sumpit kayu sekali pakai, oleh sebab itu di China, sumpit jenis ini dilarang digunakan. Kenapa? Berdasarkan penelitian, diduga ada kaitan antara konsumsi chlorine dalam tubuh dengan kemandulan pria, lahir cacat, keterbelakangan mental serta kanker.
I. Kandungan zat klorin di kantong kertas teh celup
Kandungan zat klorin di kantong kertas teh celup akan larut. Apalagi jika Anda mencelupkan kantong teh lebih dari 3 – 5 menit. Klorin atau chlorine, zat kimia yang lazim digunakan dalam industri kertas. Fungsinya, disinfektan kertas, sehingga kertas bebas dari bakteri pembusuk dan tahan lama. Selain itu, kertas dengan klorin memang tampak lebih bersih. Karena bersifat disinfektan, klorin dalam jumlah besar tentu berbahaya. Tak jauh beda dari racun serangga. Banyak penelitian mencurigai kaitan antara asupan klorin dalam tubuh manusia dengan kemandulan pada pria, bayi lahir cacat, mental terbelakang, dan kanker.
Nah, mulai sekarang, jangan biarkan teh celup Anda tercelup lebih dari 5 menit. Atau, kembali ke cara yang sedikit repot: Gunakan teh bubuk. Minumlah teh, bukan klorin…
II. (Penelitian)
Kebanyakan orang Indonesia (terutama Jawa) kalo minum teh malah sebenarnya minum gula, karena banyakan gulanya daripada tehnya. Lebih tepatnya, minum gula campur teh, campur susu, atau kopi .. sekarang ketambahan minum gula campur teh & chlorine lagi. Tapi saya percaya, yg terakhir ini masih lebih banyak sari teh-nya daripada chlorine-nya.
Berarti ada chlorine-nya ya di kertas teh celup …
Untuk memuaskan keingintahuan, saya coba lakukan test hari ini, di lab saya. Hasilnya : Untuk sample 100 ml (seukuran segelas cangkir teh), dengan air aqua diambil dari dispenser dengan panas (70 – 80oC), kemudian teh celup merk “X” diambil tehnya, kertas pembungkus dicelupkan ke sample selama 10 menit, untuk beberapa sample didapat hasil berkisar 0.04 – 1.10 mg/L. Air Aqua asalnya sendiri chlorine content-nya tidak terdeteksi.
Chlorine tergolong powerful oxidizing agent, bersifat toxic dan corrosive.
Biasa digunakan dalam proses bleaching (contoh di pabrik kertas), manufacturing syntetic rubber & plastic, serta desinfektan untuk pemurnian air.
Di Permenkes (no …), utk persyaratan kualitas air minum, setahu saya, tidak disebutkan nilai batas keberadaan chlorine (apa berarti tidak diperbolehkan?). Tapi untuk Kualitas Air Kolam Renang, Permenkes masih diperbolehkan dengan batasan antara 0.2 – 0.5 mg/L (tolong dikoreksi kalo saya keliru). Demikian juga WHO, setahu saya batasannya max. 0.5 mg/L.
Kadar klorin di dalam kemasan teh yang cuma 200 ml, bisa jadi lebih tinggi dibandingkan dengan klorin dipengolahan PDAM yang sekian ribu kubik karena konsentras nya merupakan fungsi dari volume mG/Liter. Jadi jangan dilihat volume total, tapi dalam tiap liternya.”
III.  Tanggapan LSM
Makanya industri ini mendapat serangan hebat dari LSM lingkungan karena hal di atas, di samping juga masalah kehutanan. Kertas terbuat dari bubur pulp yang berwarna coklat tua kehitaman. Agar serat berwarna putih, diperlukan sejenis bahan pengelantang (sejenis rinso/baycline) senyawa chlorine yang kekuatan sangat keras sekali!
Kertas sama dengan kain, karena memiliki serat. Kalau Anda mau uji benar apa tidaknya, silahkan coba nanti malam bawa tissue ke Studio East, lihatlah tissue akan mengeluarkan cahaya saat kena sinar ultraviolet dari lampu disco!
Berarti masih mengandung chlorine tinggi. Kalau di negara maju, produk ini harus melakukan proses neutralization dgn biaya cukup mahal agar terbebas dari chlorine dan dapet label kesehatan. Tissue atau kertas makanan dari negera maju yang dapat label Depkes-nya tidak bakalan mengeluarkan cahaya tersebut saat kena UV. Kertas rokok sama saja, bahkan ada calsium carbonat agar daya bakarnya sama dengan tembakau dan akan terurai jadi CO saat dibakar. Di Indonesia tidak ada yang kontrol, jadi harap berhati-hati.
Jadi apa jalan keluarnya?
Yang pertama, jangan terlalu lama merendam teh celup dalam air panas, jangan lebih dari 3 menit.
Yang kedua, hindari penggunaan teh celup, sebagai gantinya, kembali seperti dulu, dengan menggunakan teh tubruk, atau teh teko, kalau mau lebih nikmat lagi, lakukan ritual minum teh seperti di China, Korea atau Jepang, ini bisa menenangkan dan meningkatkan rasa hormat kepada orang lain, karena pada intinya, ritual minum teh adalah penghormatan kepada orang yang dilayani, sekaligus memberikan kehormatan kepada orang yang diberi kesempatan melayani, dengan menuangkan teh ke mangkuk rekan di hadapannya.
Lindungi keluarga Anda dari gangguan kesehatan di masa depan. Hindari teh celup atau produk lain yang mengandung chlorine.
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